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A Middle West of Germany Road Trip

This post took some time as I am rather busy at the moment. But now here it is:

Last week Bettina and I went on a well extended cruise around Germany in order to catch up with a couple of friends of ours. In addition to that we also took the opportunity to have a closer look at several other places. Thus the following places or points of interest can be listed: Cologne, Osnabrück, Bonn, Koblenz, Mosel River, Rhine River, Bingen, Mainz, Frankfurt, Main River, Worms, Mannheim, Heidelberg and Neckar River. Our last destination was Munich - but more about this later on.


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Day 1 – An autobahn trip to Cologne

The first day was mainly supposed to be heading northeast to Cologne. Our navigation system originally told us it was about 4.5 hours. Some happy traffic jam around Würzburg and one more close to Frankfurt it took almost twice as long. Just make sure you’re around Frankfurt on a Friday afternoon. Great!

Sooner or later we arrived at Rodenkirchen suburb of Cologne where Sandra, one of Bettina’s friends uses to live. Lena, another friend from Hamburg, was there as well. So did Eva, one of Sandra’s mates. Then we had some really nice dinner, a couple of drinks and not too soon after were off towards downtown Cologne.

What else can I say? Sightseeing was skipped due to a slightly tight schedule. Instead we were heading around town sampling many (but small) glasses of local Kölsch beer and a few cocktails.

Day 2 – Cologne to Osnabrück

Half of the following day I had to relax. However, after a decent brunch I felt rested enough to continue with my journey. I left Bettina and the Rhineland behind and beat the highway a further 220km northeast to the city of Osnabrück leaving North Rhine-Westphalia and entering Lower Saxony.

In Osnabrück I was ready to meet Jan, an old mate back from Australia I used to live with at Eva’s Backpackers Hostel and who also I went on a trip with to Tasmania in early 2006. After gossiping for a while the both of us went on a stroll around the city centre.

Plenty of old half-timbered buildings and medieval remnants make you easily forget that large parts of the city have been destroyed during WWII.

To get a few more facts and figures about the city’s history – Osnabrück claims to be where the Thirty Years’ War ended in 1648 – Jan and I went to the Town Hall where the so-called Peace of Westphalia was proclaimed. Around 9ish we caught up with his girlfriend and we attended a guided night watchmen tour wandering winding lamp-lit streets of the old town and were introduced to various interesting locations like churches, cellars, bridges or the top of tall turrets. Afterwards Jan and I checked out the nightlife and had a small number of drinks at some local bars.

Day 3 – Osnabrück to Cologne

After breakfast we took the chance to get around town again. I was able to have closer looks at the castle, uni, different parks and the really scenic botanical gardens.

Then it was time for me to say goodbye and step into the car again to drive back to Cologne.

Came evening time Sandra, Lena, Bettina and I went downtown to have some gorgeous dinner. After being treated barefacedly at the Brazil restaurant Pantanal Rodizio near the Media Park – you cannot imagine how audacious the staff was –we ended up at a lovely Mexican bar with great food and drinks.

Day 4 –Köln to Koblenz

Before finally leaving Cologne we did a brief tour along the Rhine River banks and threw a few glimpses onto the city’s skyline and famous Altstadt along with the Dom (cathedral).

Then we continued south a few km and explored Bonn by car. The city used to be the former temporary capital of West Germany until in 1991 a reunited German government decided to move back to Berlin. The city streets lacked – in my view – a little bit too much of attractiveness and thus we drove immediately to the Bundesviertel , Bonn’s former government quarter, which today is still home to more than a few governmental departments as well as the UN and other international and federal institutions. Definitely worth a rapid look at all!

Thereafter we hit the picturesque route along the Rhine. Shortly we arrived in Koblenz which has a population of 108,000. The town has ancient roots that go all the way back to the Romans. Today it is the economic and commercial centre of the Upper Rhine region. It is also the spot where the Moselle is confluent with the Rhine.

At first we checked into our room at Hotel van Werth near the city centre. Subsequently we explored Löhrstraße, Koblenz’ main shopping drag and a bunch of eating places until fine wine and Saumagen pulled us into a charming restaurant.

Afterwards we were yet again up to some sightseeing. We strolled north to the Moselle, turned right and followed the riverbank to the Deutsches Eck, a promontory built on a sandbank right at the two rivers’ point of confluence. A statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I on a horseback, in the bombastic style of the late 19th century, dominates the spot. While walking homewards on the Rheinpromenade we gained some nice vistas of the opposite area plus the impressive Ehrenbreitstein Fortress.

Day 5 – Along romantic Moselle

Tasty breakfast was first, mighty Ehrenbreitstein Fortress next. Looming above the Deutsches Eck, it proved indestructible to all but Napoleonic troops who levelled it in 1801. We were able to catch some excellent views from Koblenz. The Landesmuseum with huge amounts of historic stuff and information served more or less as shelter while it was raining outside.

For lunch we went back downtown. Now, with improved light conditions, we returned to the Deutsches Eck and had a handful closer looks and photos taken. Nonetheless we were fed up with this rather touristic area all too soon. I escaped for about one hour to the nearby Ludwig Museum, well known for contemporary art.

The Moselle Valley was our subsequent destination. The German section of the river, which rises in France and then traverses Luxemburg, runs 195km from Trier to Koblenz on a slow serpentine course, revealing new scenery at every bend.

The whole afternoon we kept on investigating: Steepest vineyards and countless castles and stunning sights. Simply beautiful! The picture-postcard village of Cochem was last. There we said it was enough and turned around…

Day 6 – Koblenz to Mainz

It was time to move onwards. Leaving the northern gateway to the Romantic Rhine in the rear view mirror Bettina and I continued south. Between Koblenz and Bingen, the Rhine carves deeply through the Rhenish slate mountains, once again meandering between hillside castles and steep fields of wine to create a magical atmosphere. Muscular forested hillsides alternate with craggy cliffs.

Idyllic villages appear roughly at each bend with neat half-timbered houses and churches. At St Goarshausen and Loreley we took the turnoff and made our way uphill to the Loreley outcrop from where we got nice panoramic views.

Shortly after this we crossed the river by ferry. That we did wisely we realized once we came along one of the prettiest of all Rhine villages, tiny Bacharach. Concealing its considerable charms behind a time-worn, 14th-century wall, we bravely dared to drive along the cobble stoned main street of the medieval village.

24km later we arrived in Bingen. Thanks to the strategic location at the confluence of the Nahe and Rhine Rivers, it has been coveted by warriors and merchants since its founding in 11 BC. We however only had a quick stroll around town and preferred to concentrate on crispy Flammkuchen at a beer garden along the river.

Early afternoon we got to Mainz. The capital city (pop 185,500) of Rhineland-Palatinate is a lively locale. Comfy Hotel Schottenhof was located right in the region of the main train station. A leisurely walk around the centre of town took us to many nice places and striking architecture. Accompanied by the sun it even was more fun and the time flew by like hell.

Bettina and I rounded up the day with Spanish food and massive cocktails. Sweet!

Day 7 – Frankfurt

This day we only had to conquer a handful of kilometres on the road. Crossing Rhine River we not just went to Frankfurt am Main (pop 660,000) but also arrived in Hesse, Germany’s economic powerhouse. Wiesbaden is the political capital, but Frankfurt wields the financial clout.

Unlike any other German city, Frankfurt is unashamedly high-rise. It bristles with jagged skyscrapers that rise up from the Rhine-Main basin and alongside a restored Altstadt (Old Town).

It is home to one of Europe’s largest stock exchanges, the Bundesbank (Germany’s central bank), and the European Central Bank, the regulating bank for member countries of the EU. Its airport is, after Heathrow, Europe’s second largest airport.

Our hotel (Hotel Carlton) once again was located in the vicinity of the main train station. From there it was just a couple of hundred metres down to the Main (pronounce like ‘mine’) River. In the afternoon the both of us ambled around the northern section of the city and took closer looks at the Main Kai, the Römerberg, the Opera, (old) Stock Exchange and certainly the skyline and its skyscrapers.

Not too late Bettina and I found a new addition of Frankfurt: The City Beach Club atop the Peek and Cloppenburg parking garage. Reachable only by elevator, the sandy place with beach volleyball area, pool, bar offered grand roofed wicker beach chairs. What a delight – especially when there are some tasty Mai Tais around… ;)

The perfect opportunity to beat some time, let go and take pleasure from a warming sun while waiting for Rahul, one of our Aussie friends, to finish work and catch up with us.

For “Ebbel Woi & Handkäse with music” and dinner – Frankfurter delicacies we took the underground to Sachsenhausen which is located south of the Main River and offers many taverns and eating places. The rest of the evening and night Bettina, Rahul and I spent at an Australian bar having far too many beers, cocktails and Bundaberg Rum. Still, it was definitely worth it.

Day 8 – Frankfurt to Worms

I certainly could have needed more sleep, but we had to check out in time. Next on our agenda was the thriving green Palmengarten in close proximity to Frankfurt’s botanical garden. The vast indoor and outdoor area offered heaps to see and smell which was a good way to recover from the exertions of the night before.

Early in the afternoon we then arrived in Worms, some 75km south of Frankfurt. It is one of Germany’s oldest cities and has played a pivotal role at various moments in European history. In AD 413 it became capital of the legendary, if short-lived, Burgundian kingdom whose rise and fall was creatively chronicled in the 12th-century Nibelungenlied, featured in a local museum and the annual Nibelungen-Festspiele, a two-week festival held in mid August. Our timing was great; sadly however the tickets were too expensive.

Hotel Boos provided basic shelter. Nevertheless the rest of the city of a population of 81,000 offered several quite nice places of interest. While following a tour printed on a map we came along some ancient Jewish sites, the Nibelungen Museum, St Paul’s church, Kaiserdom (‘Emperor’s cathedral’) aka. Dom St Peter, and one or two more really nice things to see.

Day 9 – Worms to Heidelberg

Before we continued our journey further south to the state of Baden-Württemberg and Heidelberg, I wanted to take the chance and visit the Nibelungen Museum that was built as part of the old city wall and turrets. Quite nifty, if you ask me! Follow this link to get a brief summary of the The Saga of the Nibelungs which was all about love and hate, pride and death.

Two hours later I returned to Bettina and we were able to head to Heidelberg where we arrived after a quick stop-over at the sprawling industrial centre of Mannheim. I just wanted to see the city centre’s chessboard arrangement. The streets, laid out on a grid, have no names; instead, each rectilinear city block has an alphanumeric designation. Sick! One would not think this is Germany!

Now back to Heidelberg, which we arrived at early afternoon and had fairly difficulties finding a free spot to park. Heidelberg’s baroque old town, lively university atmosphere, excellent pubs and evocative half-ruined castle make it hugely popular with visitors. It is Germany’s oldest and most famous university town with a population of 143,000. We could see that.

The Altstadt stretches along the Neckar River from Bismarckplatz east to the Schloss. Europe’s longest pedestrian zone, the 1,600m-long Hauptsraße – the so-called Royal Mile – runs east-to-west through the middle of the Altstadt. Two bridges link the Altstadt with the Neckar’s northern bank.

At first we arbitrarily wandered around and got numerous impressions until we started looking for a decent place to have late lunch. Down by the riverside we eventually crossed the Alte Brücke and climbed up to the Philosopher’s Walk on the hillside to the north. There we were provided with a welcome respite from the tourist hordes and first-rate scenery.

Back downtown we fetched our luggage and checked into lovely Pension Jeske a stone’s throw from the Marktplatz and Heiliggeistkirche. Our room was pretty pleasant. In the evening we ended up at a local beer hall, had a great brew and traditional food.

Day 10 – Heidelberg to Munich

The last day of our trip we walked up the steep, cobbled Burgweg for about 10 minutes to get to the Schloß. Dominating the Altstadt from high, the partly ruined, red-sandstone ‘Castle’ is one of Germany’s finest Gothic-Renaissance fortresses.

We were having breakfast and, of course, had to share another great view onto the city below with a high number of tourists.

Behind the castle, the garden is a delightful place to hang around. From there we went back down on a tiny trail and carried on our journey.

Then there were heaps of autobahn kilometres ahead. For lunch we went to – yeah! – Crailsheim. Nothing interesting to mention about this place! ;)

Late in the afternoon we ultimately reached our final destination: Munich. Right on prominent Königsplatz Eric Clapton & His Band was set to show his guitar and singing skills.

In the beginning we unfortunately had to deal with all those masses of elderly people (sounds harsh, I know). It seemed, they weren’t used to that huge number of people at one single place and behaved annoyingly foolish; skipping queues, pushing others and complaining about nearly everything. Whatever!

The scenery with its classic architecture looked great. We were lucky and had seats pretty near to the stage.

The support act was Jacob Dylan, Bob Dylan’s youngest son. It was alright, however nothing spectacular.

Unfortunately I have to say somewhat the same about Eric Clapton’s show as well. If you’re not 100% into that kind of music you might find it a little bit monosonic. At least that’s what I felt. There was more or less no interaction with the audience, no announcements from Eric. He and his band just played their songs. To be honest I expected a little bit more from him performing live…

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